50plusDC- Cumbres and Toltec

The Denver & Rio Grande Railroad was founded in 1870 by General William Palmer and his friend Dr William Bell. Their intention was to build a railroad connecting Denver with Mexico City, and for fast construction and to reduce cost they used a 0.91 metre (3 foot) narrow gauge. Finding the way blocked by a rival railroad, the D&RG turned its attention to the mining areas, particularly in the Rockies, where the narrow gauge was an advantage. In 1890 the railroad began converting its track to standard gauge, but this was stopped in 1893 when the silver market crashed, leaving a mixed gauge railroad. After World War II the D&RG went into decline and the last narrow gauge lines closed in 1969. Some sections were saved by preservationists, with the line between Antonito and Chama becoming the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad.

Train from Chama approaching Osier Station

The day that we did the trip in 2008, the plan for the two trains to arrive at Osier at much the same time went seriously awry. The train from Chama suffered a derailment which delayed it for nearly 2 hours. We had a very leisurely lunch and then had to wait for the train from Chama and for its passengers to be fed. This picture shows the train from Chama belatedly making its approach to Osier.

Cumbres & Toltec Railroad

Train at Windy Point

From Osier towards Chama the line climbs even higher as it heads towards its highest point at the Cumbres Pass, 3,052 metres (10,015 feet) above sea level. On our journey the weather deteriorated as we climbed, hence no picture of the train at the Cumbres Pass. After leaving the pass, the railroad starts its descent along a high ledge around Windy Point. The picture shows the train approaching some fall foliage at Windy Point.

Train passing Fall Foliage

Antonito sits in the San Luis Valley, a large and very flat valley which was once occupied a shallow lake. The early stages of the journey from Antonito are therefore a little boring. After about half an hour the train begins to climb and soon the track is twisting and turning, crossing back and forth between Colorado and New Mexico. This picture was taken on a part of the line known as The Whiplash where it doubles back on itself three times while it gains height.

Locomotive 484 at Osier Station

Osier is about halfway between Antonito and Chama, so here the trains from both ends stop for lunch. The locomotives continue through but the rolling stock returns to the end from which it started, hence in this picture Locomotive 484 has been uncoupled from the carriages that it brought up to Osier. With some passengers continuing though to the other end of the line and others returning back, the two trains have to arrive at roughly the same time. As a result the Osier Kitchen has the mammoth task of feeding two trainloads of people in a relatively short time.

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Locomotive 484 heading train at Antonito Station

The line runs between Antonito in Colorado and Chama in New Mexico, crossing the border between the two states 11 times on the way. This causes a problem for 50 plus DC as it is catalogued by state, but we have overcome this by having a copy of this page under both states. The Cumbres and Toltec Railroad is 103 kilometres (64 miles) long, too long to make a return journey in a single day. The railroad offers the choice of a travelling by rail in one direction and returning by motor coach, or travelling by train to and from Osier, which is roughly in the middle of the line. We took the one way train trip from Antonito to Chama.

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Fall Foliage & Railroad near Chama

Taken the day before our trip on the Cumbres and Toltec, this picture shows some of the magnificent early October fall foliage near Chama.

Chama Station

Courtesy of the derailment of the train from Chama, when we eventually got to Chama Station the light was beginning to fade. Fortunately we had seen the station the day before in bright sunlight. Here Locomotive 489 in steam awaits the arrival of the incoming train from Osier.

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- A very memorable steam train ride.

- The lunch at Osier, which was surprisingly good especially considering the time constraints under which it must be served.

- It is a long day, not suitable for young children.

- The long wait at Osier courtesy of the derailment of the train travelling in the opposite direction.

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