Hotel Ivanhoe,  Ferndale

In 1852 brothers Seth and Stephen Shaw built a cabin, cleared land and each registered a land claim.  Seth built a house on his claim and named it  Fern Dale. Later this housed the first Post office and gave the town its name. In the 1870s Danish Dairy Farmers moved in the district and Ferndale began to boom as an agricultural centre. Modern Ferndale is far from modern, as it has retained most of its Victorian buildings. One of the first hotels in the town was Robert's Hotel built in 1870, which still exists as the Hotel Ivanhoe.  In 1891 the Russ-Williams Bank was built over the road from the hotel. In the same building was a millinary store, haberdashery, newspaper and offices.  That building is now the Victorian Village Inn.  Click Tab 2 to see the  slightly over-the-top Victorian Village Inn.

Carson Mansion, Eureka

Eureka stands on the shore of Humboldt Bay, a bay so well protected from the Pacific that explorers sailing up the coast failed to find it.  An overland expedition in 1849 discovered the bay and the town of Eureka was founded the following year. The sheltered harbour ensured that Eureka grew quickly. The town still retains many fine Victorian buildings, the most famous of which is a mansion that looks like a set for the Addams Family. William Carson arrived in the area in search of gold, but he made his fortune from the coastal redwood trees. His mansion was designed in 1883 and remained in family hands until 1950. It is now the Ingomar Club, a private club whose mission is to preserve the building while also providing fine dining and social experiences for its members.

North Coast

By driving along Route 1 it is possible to stick pretty close to the coast all the way from San Luis Obispo to Mendocino. North of Mendocino Route 1 continues along the coast for another 51 kilometres (31 miles) before turning inland and ending where it joins Route 101. For the next 146 kilometres (90 miles) up to Eureka, Route 101 runs inland and while there are some opportunities to get down to the coast, there is no continuous drive along it. North of Eureka to the Oregon border, Route 101 takes over where Route 1 left off by mainly following the coast, but it is a busy road lacking the tranquility of Route 1. The coast remains scenic along the northern stretch even though there are fewer opportunities to see it, but there are also lighthouses and towns that time forgot to make a visit worthwhile.

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Point Cabrillo Light Station

On a point just north of Mendocino stands a lighthouse that looks very old.  A 20th century lighthouse would surely have a tall stone tower rather than the relatively low tower at Point Cabrillo? But Point Cabrillo Light Station is indeed a 20th century lighthouse. Following the 1906 earthquake that devastated San Francisco  ships delivering building materials to rebuild the city caused a huge increase in traffic along this part of the coast. A lighthouse was urgently needed and there was not enough time to build a stone tower. Construction began in 1908 and the lighthouse was lit in June 1909. It was replaced by an automated beacon in 1973. The lighthouse has been restored and is open to visitors.

View south from Route 1 viewpoint

Although this section of Route 1 runs close to the coast, there are stretches where the land between the road and the sea is either private or a State Park. Along such stretches there are places where you can drive down to the sea, but expect to pay for the privilege. We chose not to pay, but every so often we were rewarded with a wonderful (and free) view of the coast like this one.

Skunk Train Station, Fort Bragg

This area is famous for its Coastal Redwood trees, and on the Redwood National Park page we outline some opportunities to drive through the redwoods. From Fort Bragg you have an opportunity to take a train on a 64 kilometre (40 mile) journey through the redwoods between Fort Bragg and Willits.  The line was built in 1885 to transport massive redwood logs to coastal sawmills and steam hauled passenger services began in 1904. The line became known as the Skunk Line in 1925 when steam passenger services were replaced by rail cars whose engines emitted a strong smell. The line was purchased by local investors in 1996. The Skunk Train now runs steam and diesel hauled services  in summer and rail car services the rest of the year.

Perennial garden, Mendicino Coast Botanical Gardens, Fort Bragg

Just south of Fort Bragg is an oasis of coastal tranquility. Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens were founded by retired nurseryman Ernest Schoefer and his wife Betty. In 1961 they spotted the potential of the site and started to build the gardens which opened in 1966. The gardens came into public ownership in 1992. In March and April the gardens are renowned for their rhododendrons, but we visited in October. There was still a lot to see with some perennials in flower, cactus and succulents plus some good views along the coast. 

Memorial Lighthouse, Trinidad

Spanish explorers were the first to land here in 1775 and they named the area ‘la Santisima Trinidad’. Settlers did not arrive to found the town until 1850. Trinidad sits above a bay formed by Trinidad Head, a peninsula jutting out into the Pacific. In 1871 Trinidad Head Lighthouse came into service. The building overlooking Trinidad Bay in this picture was never a functional lighthouse but is closely linked to the lighthouse out on the head. In 1947 Trinidad Head Lighthouse was fitted with an modern beacon and air horns, so its lens and fog bell were removed. In 1949 the memorial lighthouse was built overlooking the bay, with the lens and bell from Trinidad Head Lighthouse. A memorial for those lost at sea was added in the 1970s.

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© Mike  Elsden 1981 - 2025

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